Haje’s Brain

There aren’t that many international super-stars of cookery, but the British chef Gordon Ramsay (who has no less than 12 Michelin stars against his name at the time I’m writing this) is rapidly becoming one of them.

In an intriguing turn of events, he has decided to open a series of pubs, serving good, wholesome British pub-grub at very reasonable prices. So, is he taking on the lucrative J.D.Wetherspoons market for cash, or does he actually have something to add to this vastly over-crowded pub market? If my visit to the Narrow is anything to go by, it’s a bit of both, really.

Jamie Oliver recently stuck his neck out in an effort to revive school dinners to something actually nearly edible. All credit to him. When I first heard of Ramsay’s attempt at opening pubs, I figured Ramsay was merely responding to his peer’s valiant efforts: Restoring the once-proud history of good pub-food to some of its former glory.

With some success, I must say. We decided to head to the Narrow as a bit of an experiment: I had recently acquired the UK Michelin guide, and the Narrow was down as one of the ‘Bib Gourmand’ cheap eat experiences. Booking a table a few days in advance proved effortless, and I was assured there was ‘plenty of options for vegetarians, too’. Awesome.

Arriving at the place, I was initially struck by how similar this was to, well, a pub. The front room is a simple drinking establishment, with the patio (with a fantastic view of the city and the Thames river) and the back room being the restaurant.

The menu was simple and predictable (this is pub food, after all), but I was particularly impressed with the prices. With starters ranging from £5-£8 and main courses clocking in at around £10 (with a £16 steak taking the ‘most expensive meal’ prize), it’s obvious that Ramsay here is chasing after the lower end of the market.

Wine and beer

What sets the Narrow apart from any other independently owned gastro-pub, however, was its rather phenomenal wine list. Around 50 wines and beers were available, and we were chomping at the bit for a lovely Pouilly-Fuiss.

First off, however, we were intrigued by the Innis & Gunn Oak Aged Beer, which turned out to be one of the better new beers I’ve tried in recent times. Quite strong (6.6% ABV), but completely lacking in bitterness without becoming too sweet, this was truly a discovery worth repeating. In fact, we ended up staying with the I&G for the rest of the evening, instead of switching to wine.

The food

The food at The Narrow was good. I had a Cream of Mushroom soup followed by a Cumberland Sausage and Mash, and both were rather excellent. Which isn’t to say that I haven’t had better: The Harcourt Arms and the Tempest in Marylebone both serve up more creative versions of bangers and mash, and I can make a comparable round of Mushroom soup and sausages and mashed potatoes in my own kitchen.

Which isn’t to say that the food is bad.

In fact, it does exactly what it says on the tin: Good, traditional dishes, cooked well, spiced well, and well presented. Exactly what you expect for the extremely competitive price, in fact.

The only thing is, well, it leaves me wondering why Ramsay is involved – the man is a legend among men, one of the finest chefs the UK has seen in a rather long time (not to mention a rather entertaining, if gutter-mouthed TV personality). I fail to understand why he feels the need to attach himself to a project that would have worked perfectly fine without

Then again, we did choose to go to the Narrow over any of the other gastro-pubs I know in London, and it was largely because of Ramsay’s affiliation, so I suppose the marketing strategy must be working, somehow

The verdict

I’m not sure if I should be disappointed or not. Instead of re-inventing and improving on the dishes available, Ramsay’s pub-grub-haven seems to have consigned itself to the fact that the wheel has been invented, and that there’s nothing more they can do.

The location of The Narrow is fabulous – it may be worth going during lunch-time rather than at night, so the full view of the river can be enjoyed – the wine list is rather spectacular, and the prices are highly affordable. It’s got an approachable, friendly atmosphere, and while the service is a bit whimsical, it’s a pretty good experience overall.

If you want to be surprised, the Narrow isn’t for you, but if you’re looking for a respectable, affordable where you can bring your in-laws without worry, you’ve found your place.

So, will I come back? Probably, but out of convenience rather than out of a heart-felt admiration: The Narrow is a £10 cab-fare from my house.

Sure, it does the trick, but its location means that unless you’re in the East London area anyway, you may as well go to one of your local gastro-pubs, for a virtually identical experience at a similar price, without lining the pockets of UK’s numero uno television chef.